1832
Saint-Imier beginnings
Auguste Agassiz establishes a watchmaking concern in Saint-Imier, the starting point Longines gives for its history.
Longines vintage watches for women in New Zealand: a collector’s guide to Swiss history, design, fit and condition, with individual pre-owned watches curated by The Gilded Hour.
A Swiss house, considered at the wrist
A clear-eyed guide to the winged hourglass house: its Swiss beginnings, the silhouettes that reward a closer look, and how to assess an individual pre-owned watch before it becomes yours.
Start with the house
A name with a place behind it
Longines traces its story to Saint-Imier in 1832. The winged hourglass carries that history forward, but the name alone cannot tell you when an individual watch was made, what movement it carries, or how it has been cared for.
That is why our guide begins with the object itself: its case, dial, movement, bracelet or strap, measurements and condition. A vintage Longines is best understood as a particular watch with a particular story—not as a promise made by a logo.
Four useful markers
These are milestones in the brand’s documented history. Use them as context, not as a date estimate for a watch without reference-level evidence.
1832
Auguste Agassiz establishes a watchmaking concern in Saint-Imier, the starting point Longines gives for its history.
1867
Ernest Francillon builds a factory at a place known locally as Les Longines and adopts the name for the manufactory.
1889
The Longines name and winged-hourglass emblem are registered together as the company’s trademark.
1992
Longines launches La Grande Classique, a line that helps shape the brand’s modern dress-watch identity.
Primary references: Longines’ Museum history, corporate chronology and La Grande Classique history. For research on a specific older watch, start with Longines’ official watch-history service and the evidence available for that exact piece.
Read the proportions
A collector’s field guide
01
Start with the case diameter and length, then look at how the dial, bezel and bracelet share the space. A measured round case can feel quietly assured; the exact wrist fit matters more than the label.
Explore round Longines styles ↗02
Longer cases bring a more graphic line to the wrist. Compare case length, width and strap position, and check whether the crown and bracelet or strap sit comfortably where you wear a watch.
Browse the current edit ↗03
Curved corners give a square profile a gentler presence. Look closely at the transition from case to strap, the dial’s texture and how the full case footprint sits across your wrist.
See a cushion-case example ↗The Gilded Hour edit
Our Longines collection brings together pre-owned pieces selected for their design and character. Each listing is for the pictured watch; open it to see its own photographs, condition notes and measurements where provided.
See the Longines collection ↗
01 / Sport-influenced polish
A two-tone bracelet and light dial give this individual Conquest a composed, versatile look. See its listing for current availability and exact specifications.
View this watch ↗
02 / Soft geometry
A softly squared case and textured champagne dial bring jewellery-like detail to this Longines. The product page shows the watch and its own fit notes.
View this watch ↗Pre-owned pieces are one-offs: stock can change. Product pages hold the current price, availability and watch-specific details.
From The Gilded Hour photographic archive
Twelve individual Longines watches photographed for our edit, including sold pieces. The images document real watches we handled; they are not current stock or a promise of availability. For pieces currently for sale, see the live collection above.
Browse the current Longines edit ↗01 / photographed examples
Longines describes Flagship as one of its earliest collections, with roots in the late 1950s. These are individual Gilded Hour listings identified as Flagship; that label does not replace reference-level research.
Read Longines’ Flagship history ↗
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
02 / photographed examples
Longines records Conquest as its first named collection, registered in 1954. These photographs show specific vintage listings from our archive; details belong to each watch, not every Conquest.
Read Longines’ Conquest history ↗
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
03 / photographed examples
La Grande Classique launched in 1992. Longines describes the line through its slim profile and sleek round case. Our archive titles follow the original Gilded Hour listings; exact vintage identification depends on the individual reference and watch evidence.
Read Longines’ La Grande Classique history ↗
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
04 / photographed examples
Charleston, Laureate and other individual designs show the range of silhouettes that have passed through the edit.
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
SOLD · ARCHIVE
Archive listings are linked for their original photographs and item-specific notes. Model names follow the original listing; age, reference, originality, service history and condition should be judged from evidence for the individual watch.
Fit before folklore
The details that change how it wears
Buy intelligently
Condition before mythology
A careful listing should help you understand the exact watch in front of you. Ask for clear evidence where a decision depends on a detail.
Look for consistency across the case, dial, hands, crown, movement and bracelet. A logo or serial number is a clue, not an authentication verdict.
Reference, movement and service records can help. For an important purchase, consult an independent watchmaker familiar with vintage Swiss watches.
The Gilded Hour states that watches are tested for at least 72 hours before dispatch. That check does not guarantee long-term accuracy or replace a service assessment.
Buying in New Zealand
We curate pre-owned watches from New Zealand and photograph the individual pieces in our collection. Read the listing for that watch’s price, availability, measurements and condition before deciding; stock changes as one-off pieces sell.
Vintage watches are not automatically water-resistant. Unless a watch has been recently pressure-tested, keep it away from water and steam.

Wear it with care
An older watch can be part of everyday life, but it should not be asked to prove what it survived decades ago. Treat water resistance as unproven unless it has been recently tested.
Collector questions
Useful answers / no folklore
Longines traces its history to 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, where Auguste Agassiz established a watchmaking concern. That date describes the brand’s origins; it does not by itself date a particular vintage watch.
The winged hourglass is Longines’ emblem. The company’s corporate history records the Longines name and winged-hourglass mark as a registered trademark in 1889. Check the exact watch and its documentation before drawing conclusions about an individual piece.
They can be, when the case dimensions, shape, movement, condition and bracelet or strap suit the person wearing the watch. A model name or a label such as small or medium cannot replace the measurements and photographs for the exact piece.
Vintage Longines watches exist with different movement types. Check the individual listing for the movement specified for that watch, and ask about service or battery history if it matters to your decision.
Read the listing for the exact reference where available, movement, dimensions, wrist fit and condition. Compare the dial, case, hands, crown and bracelet as one watch; for a significant purchase, seek an independent watchmaker’s assessment. A logo or serial number alone is not proof of authenticity.
Treat water resistance as unproven unless the watch has been recently pressure-tested. Age, seals and previous repairs can affect resistance, so keep a vintage watch away from showers, pools, steam and water unless a qualified watchmaker confirms otherwise.
The Gilded Hour is a New Zealand-based curator of pre-owned watches. Its Longines collection links to individual pieces with their own photographs and listing details; stock changes as one-off watches sell.
The search is part of the pleasure
Vintage Longines watches for women, considered for design, condition and the way each one sits on the wrist.